Isuzu VehiCROSS Timing Belt And Associated Maintenance

OVERVIEW

Changing the timing belt on the Isuzu 3.5L DOHC V6 is a regular maintenance step scheduled for 75,000 miles in the workshop manual. Often this important maintenance step is ignored until around 100,000 miles or more. In my case, I performed this step at approximately 90,000 miles. In general, the timing belt maintenance is not difficult, however it is quite involved and will require the right amount of time, some serious concentration, the correct tools, and the proper instructions which will be outlined here. In addition to having the proper tools on hand, it is important to have all of the replacement parts on hand and ready. Personally, I recommend using Isuzu OEM replacement parts. While expensive, these parts are definitely going to work and will hopefully last longer than aftermarket parts or eBay kits.

DISCLAIMER

The following tutorial was made to help you do this maintenance yourself. I am not a professional mechanic. I am not responsible for any mistakes you make, or anything you do as a result of reading this tutorial. I am not responsible for any damage you do to your vehicle or any problems you should have during this process. Use this tutorial at your own risk! Refer to the VX Shop Manual as often as possible to double check these instructions.

 
Things typed in BLUE are either tips, suggestions or special notes.
Things typed in RED are VERY IMPORTANT and should be read carefully and followed accurately!
 
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND THINGS YOU NEED
Below is a complete list of all the parts I bought to do the job.
All OEM parts were ordered from St. Charles Isuzu (ask for Merlin) 1-800-727-8066


New Timing Belt - $58.79
Part Number: 8-97136321-0


New Gatorback Serpentine Belt - $39.99
Part Number: 4060-900
NOTE: This is the ONLY non-OEM part used

New Water Pump - $156.79
Part Number: 8-97167554-0

New Water Pump Stud - $14
Part Number: 8-97136226-0

New Push Tensioner - $77.74
Part Number: 8-97328512-0

New Idle Timing Pulley - $101.44
Part Number: 8-97146877-0

New Tensioner Pulley - $287.88
Part Number: 8-97136256-1

You will need roughly 2.5 jugs of your favorite premixed 50/50
Engine Coolant - about $10/jug (buy 3 jugs)


New Radiator Outlet Hose - $25.13
Part Number: 8-97072-935-0

Note: I did not get new radiator hose clamps when I ordered my parts. However, I would suggest you either purchase 4 OEM hose clamps when you order your parts, or simply buy 4 good quality hose clamps from your local auto parts store. I broke one of the original hose clamps during re-installation. The original ones were very dirty and corroded.


New Radiator Inlet Hose - $18.07
Part Number: 8-97177702-1
LIST OF REGULAR TOOLS, SPECIAL TOOLS, AND OPTIONAL TOOLS YOU WILL NEED
REGULAR TOOLS
1) Breaker Bar (1/2")
2) Torque Wrench (1/2")
3) Metric Socket Set & Ratchet
4) Deep Metric Sockets
5) Metric Allen Wrench Set or Metric Allen Socket Set
6) Safety Goggles
7) 2 or 3 catch pans
8) TORX bits and driver
9) Flat and Phillips Screw Drivers
10) Various common pliers
11) Socket size up/down bits
12) Open End Metric box wrenches
13) Shop Vac
14) Paper style binder clips
15) Funnel
16) Loctite 262
SPECIAL/OPTIONAL TOOLS
1) Home-made Isuzu "J-tool" Note: This will be explained below
2) Several old rags and towels
3) Foam Ear Plugs (not for your ears, you'll see)
4) Masking Tape
5) Sharpie Marker
6) Sandwich Baggies

7) Cardboard Box
8) X-Acto Knife and/or Pick
9) VX Shop Manual
10) A helper/friend
11) Camera
12) A case of your favorite beer
13) Zip-ties
14) Head Lamp/Flash Light
15) Jack
 
PART 1: DISASSEMBLY
BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Make sure you are parked on a level surface. Engage parking brake. Make sure your work area is clean. Have all your parts and tools ready. Start early. I think this process can be completed in one to two days. I suggest giving yourself a full weekend. Stay focused.
Step 1) Disconnect battery ground (-) cable. Disconnect battery hot cable (+). Remove battery and battery tray and set aside.

Step 2) Remove the grill. There are 4 10mm bolts & washers on the top of the grill and 3 Phillips screws inside the grill honeycomb.
Below you see the location of the 3 screws in the honeycomb. Take the screws you just removed and put them in a plastic sandwich baggie. Seal the baggie off with a piece of masking tape. Write on the masking tape, "grill screws". Place plastic baggie in empty cardboard box.

Step 3) Remove the front turn signals. There are 2 screws for each side holding in the lamp housings. Once unscrewed, disconnect the electrical connector behind each lamp. Once the signals are removed, push the screws back through their holes. This will keep everything together so nothing gets lost. Set the parts aside.

Step 4) Remove front cladding trim. There are 4 TORX screws on the outside of the cladding that need to be removed. Be sure to only remove the outer TORX screws as the inner screws are just for looks and need not be removed! You might loose the screw backing if you remove these! There are also 8 10mm bolts & washers on the bottom of the cladding, inside the turn signal housing, and behind the license plate. Also, underneath the front wheel wells you will find 2 more screw-bolts. After all the bolts/screws are removed, the cladding will come free. Carefully lift the cladding away with one hand and disconnect the round driving lights with the other hand. Place the front cladding aside. Be sure to again put all the screws in a plastic baggie. Seal the baggie with a piece of masking tape and write, "cladding screws" on the tape. Place the baggie into the cardboard box.

Optional Step A) Remove dirty bumper padding. These pads are dusty and dirty and are annoying to work around, and they come off easily. There are two pinch type fasteners holding each one in place. Pinch them from the backside and carefully remove them. Set the dirty pads aside.

Optional Step B) Remove auxiliary fan. There are 4 long screw-bolts that hold the fan in place. There is also an electrical connector that must be unplugged. Removing the auxiliary fan will give you more room to work, and you can clean the fan and the heat sink behind it easier. Wrap some masking tape around the electrical connector and write "fan" on it with your Sharpie. This way you will notice it and not forget to plug it back in. Also, don't forget to place the 4 screws into a plastic baggie, sealed with a piece of masking tape, and labeled "front fan screws". Place the baggie into the cardboard box.

Step 5) Remove Front Skid Plate. There are 3x large 14mm bolts & washers recessed in the holes. You will need to stick your socket in the holes and unscrew them from underneath. This will give you more room to work from underneath, plus you can clean and respray your front skid plate with a nice fresh coat of your favorite anti-rust spray paint. Once removed, set the skid plate aside and put the bolts in a sandwich baggie. Seal off the baggie with masking tape and write on the tape, "skid plate bolts". Place the baggie into the cardboard box.

Step 7) Drain the radiator. Crawl under the VX and locate the drain plug. It will be near the inside bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side. Have a catch pan ready and an old towel. Wear your safety goggles so you don't get any coolant in the eye. Remove the drain plug and get ready for the waterfall of engine coolant that will spew out for several minutes. Also, remove the radiator fill cap from the top. This will allow the coolant to drain faster. This is when things get messy so have some rags ready to clean up afterwards. Place the drain plug and top cap in a plastic baggie, seal off with tape, label appropriately and place the baggie into the cardboard box.



Step 8) Remove the radiator bracket. There are 2 12mm bolts holding it in place. Place the bolts and the removed bracket into their own plastic baggie, seal with masking tape and label the tape, "radiator bracket". Place the baggie into the cardboard box.

Step 9) Remove the intake. You can do this while you are waiting for the radiator to drain. There are two band clamps that can be loosened with the Phillips screws. There are also 2 electrical connectors to unplug. Wrap some masking tape around the electrical connectors and write, "intake" on them so you don't overlook them and forget to plug them back in later. There is also a hose going into the intake on the passenger side right on top. Disconnect this hose with the pinch clamp. You might also label this hose with masking tape as well. Set the intake aside. At this point it is a good idea to take a plastic baggie and seal off the intake. This will keep dust out. I used some zip-ties to secure the baggies.






Step 10) Remove the radiator hoses. There are hose clamps at either end of both hosess. If your VX is like mine, than these clamps will be badly corroded and should be replaced. However, if you are careful you can probably reuse them, just don't loose the tiny washers. Loosen the hose clamps by unscrewing the fastener at each end and slide them off the hose ends. If you are replacing your hoses (you should be), removing the hoses can be made easier by cutting them slightly with a razor blade. You will probably leak some more coolant when the hoses are removed so be ready with a rag and catch pan. The long hose on the passenger side has a big plastic retainer in the middle. The retainer is clipped to a metal bracket with a pinch type fastener. You have to pinch the fastener from the backside to release it. Be careful not to break it. Once the hoses are removed, set the old ones aside or throw them away if you are replacing them. There is also a small hose that leads to the overflow tank. Using the pinch type clamp, disconnect this hose. Place the 4 hose clamps and all their little parts in a plastic baggie if you plan to reuse them. Seal the baggie with some masking tape and label, "radiator hose clamps". Place the baggie in the cardboard box. Also place the plastic retainer in the box so you do not loose it.



Step 11) Remove the fan shrouds. This part is a little annoying because it is hard to see and you will be working in tight spots. The fan shrouds are the gray plastic guards that protect the main cooling fan and your fingers. First, you need to remove the lower part of the fan shroud. The top and the bottom pieces kind of sit together in a groove. There are two plastic clips that hold the bottom shroud in place These clips are part of the fan shroud itself. Be careful not to flex them too much. I broke one of mine. There are also 4 tiny metal clips that you need to pop off. Using a flat blade screw driver you can easily pop them off, but be ready to catch them as they will go flying. I do not have any photos of this step so you will just have to look and feel your way through this part. A head lamp helps. Once you get the bottom shroud disconnected, you can remove the top shroud. There are two bolts holding it in place on top. Carefully pull the fan shrouds out and set them aside. Take the 4 tiny metal clips and the two top bolts and put them in a plastic baggie. Seal the baggie with some masking tape and label the masking tape, "fan shrouds".

Step 12) Disconnect transmission fluid cooling lines from the bottom of the radiator. There are 2 pinch type hose clamps holding these
hoses onto two tubes. Have a catch pan ready as some ATF will spill out. I used some foam type ear plugs to plug up these tubes while I did the work. This worked very well. I also put some tape on one of the tubes and the corresponding hose so I remember how they match.

Step 13) Disconnect the industrial cable-tie holding some electrical conduit from the bottom of the radiator. Crawl under your VX. Near the bottom, inner corner of the radiator on the driver's side is a wide plastic electrical conduit. This is secured to the radiator with a strong cable-tie. In my case, I ended up carefully cutting this piece with some wire cutters because it was too difficult to get at with my fingers. When I replaced the radiator, I used a zip-tie to secure this electrical conduit again. If you can manage to, you can release the conduit from a hole in the radiator housing by pinching the fastener on the backside. Good luck. This is the last item holding your radiator in place and it must be disconnected or cut to remove the radiator.
Step 14) Lay an old towel down in your garage. Carefully lift the radiator out of your VX. Go slow and lift straight up. Be sure not to damage the radiator fins. Once out, carefully lay the radiator down on the towel. Look for 2 round rubber bumpers that the radiator was sitting on. They may have fallen out when you were lifting or they may be stuck to the bottom of the radiator. Put these bumpers in the cardboard box.

Step 15) Remove the old serpentine belt (aka drive belt). To do this, you simply place your breaker bar with the appropriate sized socket on the drive belt tensioner and pull the bar toward the driver's side. The belt will become slack and you can remove it. This is such a quick and simple step, I forgot to photograph it, but this diagram from the shop manual illustrates it perfectly.

Step 16) Remove the fan. On the front of the fan there are 4 small nuts securing it to the fan drive assembly. Using a socked and ratchet, remove the 4 nuts and place them in a plastic baggie. Seal the plastic baggie with masking tape, and write on the masking tape, "main fan nuts". Slide the fan off the 4 posts and set aside.

Step 17) Remove the fan drive assembly. There are 2 long bolts and 1 nut securing it in place. Remove all three and place them into a plastic baggie. Seal the baggie with masking tape and label the tape, "fan drive assembly". Place the fan drive assembly aside.

Step 18) Now you have all sorts of room to work and it is time to get at the timing belt. But first, we have lots more to remove. Start with the serpentine belt idle pulley (#4 in the shop manual diagram above). There is one 14mm bolt securing it. Remove the pulley and bolt and place in a plastic baggie. Seal the baggie with masking tape and label it, "serp belt idle pulley". Place the baggie into the cardboard box.

Step 19) Remove the drive belt tensioner assembly (#3 in the above diagram). To do this, there is a bolt holding the unit to housing, and a large allen bolt in the center. Remove both of these and the whole unit comes off. You DO NOT need to remove the pulley itself.

Step 20) Remove the Power Steering Pulley. To do this, take a 14mm socket and put it through the lower left hole in the pulley. There is a bolt back there it will fit on. This will allow you to crank the large 17mm bolt in the center without rotating the whole thing. Set the large bolt and pulley aside.

Step 21) Remove the Crankshaft Pulley. This step is probably going to be the one you get hung up on. Isuzu provides their mechanics with a special tool to hold the crankshaft while you loosen the large 24mm bolt in the center. I have also heard that an impact wrench will quickly do the trick. However, if you do not have the special tool or an impact wrench, you are going to need to improvise. In my case, I went to the hardware store, and bought a long piece of flat stock. I cut a hole on one end big enough for me to get my 24mm socket through. I then measured the space between the holes in the crankshaft pulley where the Isuzu tool would attach. I drilled two corresponding holes in the metal flat stock and put two bolts through the holes. This allowed me to stabilize the crankshaft pulley so the 24mm bolt could be cranked off. Thinking about this in hindsight, I most likely could have used a piece of hardwood instead and it would have most likely worked just the same. However you do it, just make sure you have a good hold on the crankshaft pulley so you can crank off the bolt without stripping it.



Step 22) Remove the timing belt covers. There are 9 12mm bolts and a single nut holding the three covers on. Start with the driver's side cover, then the passenger side cover, and then remove the lower cover. Each bolt should have a bushing and a rubber washer that will probably be stuck to the back of the cover or stuck to the engine housing. Be careful not to loose these as they will most likely start falling off. Collect all the bolts, bushings, washers and the single nut and put them in a plastic baggie. Seal the baggie with masking tape and write on the tape, "TB Covers". Once the covers are removed, you will be able to clean them off really nice. If you were leaking coolant from your water pump you will see loads of it caked on the top of the covers and a little on the inside.



 
Part 2: The Timing Belt Chamber

Step 23) Behold your timing belt chamber. Take a few moments to look at everything and familiarize yourself with the various pulleys. With your old belt still on, now is a good time to clean up any caked engine coolant, wipe away any excessively dirty spots, and generally clean things up. If you've been taking your time, this may be a good stopping point to go have some dinner, more beer, and get a good night's sleep.

So, now is when you have to really start paying attention. We have all read scary things on the Internet about messing this up. The VehiCROSS workshop manual is incredibly vague, as are the few training videos out there. There are a lot of details here that those resources completely gloss over. However, it does not hurt to read through the timing belt section of the manual. It also does not hurt to watch the videos. Here is a reference scan from the manual showing where everything is and what it is called. I will refer back to this diagram going forward.

Step 24) Take the large 24mm bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley on (you removed this bolt in Step 21) and thread it back onto the center of the crankshaft timing pulley by hand. DO NOT tighten this bolt down, just turn it by hand until it stops.

Step 25) Read carefully. Take your breaker bar with a 24mm socket and using the crankshaft pulley bolt you just put back in, slowly turn the engine by hand clockwise. There will be some slight resistance as you crank the engine over. Watch as your old belt turns all the pulleys. Look at the RH Bank Camshaft Pulley (#2 in the diagram above) and the LH Bank Camshaft Pulley (#5 in the diagram above) as you manually turn the engine. Notice the green marks on the pulleys and the lines on the engine housing. The RH Bank reference mark is at the 10 o'clock position. The LH Bank reference mark is at the 2 o'clock position. Now, hopefully you can still see the original lines on your timing belt. You should be able to spot 2 solid white lines and 1 dotted white line. Keep cranking the engine by hand (its not hard, but it does get tiring!) until you have seen all three lines pass by. When the dotted line is at the bottom near the crankshaft timing pulley, the solid lines should be up near the RH and LH camshaft pulleys. You can use the old lines on the belt to tell you when you have completed each full rotation of the engine. However, these lines are only critical for NEW BELT INSTALLATION and you can basically ignore them for now.

At the same time, the green reference marks on BOTH camshaft pulleys should line up with the reference marks on the engine housing. The lines on the original belt will be close by, but they WILL NOT line up with the reference marks on the camshaft pulleys and the reference marks on the engine housing at the same time. Don't let that confuse you. As I said above, the lines are only critical for NEW BELT INSTALLATION. Now, with camshaft pulleys lined up at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, crawl under your VX or peek through the front at the position of the crankshaft pulley. You should see a green reference mark on the crankshaft pulley as well, and it should be lined up with a mark on the oil pump housing. So now you know that for every single FULL rotation of the engine the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft pulley will line up with the marks on the housing. So all you have to do is line everything up as pictured below and proceed to the next step.



Step 26) OK, with all three pulleys lined up, you are ready to remove the old timing belt. Locate the timing belt Push Tensioner. Loosen the lower bolt first, but do remove it. Then, loosen the upper bolt and remove it. Upon doing so the old timing belt will go slack. At the same time, both camshaft pulleys will automatically spring to the 12 o'clock position! This is normal. Now that you have removed the old push tensioner and the belt has gone slack, DO NOT ROTATE the crankshaft pulley again, until the new belt is installed!!! Set the old push tensioner aside, but take the push tensioner bolts and put them in a plastic baggie. Seal the plastic baggie with some masking tape and label the tape, "push tensioner bolts". Place the baggie into the cardboard box.

Step 27) Remove the Idle Pulley (#4 in the diagram above). There is 1 14mm bolt securing it. Set the old pulley aside but put the bolt in a baggie and label it correctly and add it to your collection in the cardboard box.

Step 28) Remove the old water pump and water pump gasket. Before you do this, get an old towel and all your catch pans ready. Place them under your VX below the water pump. To remove the water pump, you must remove 5 short 12mm bolts, 4 long 12mm bolts, and 1 oddball 14mm post. You will need a deep 14mm socket to remove this post. This post is called the Water Pump Stud. You should have a new one waiting to go in with the new water pump. As each bolt gets removed, you will begin to leak engine coolant from behind the water pump. Take note of which holes have long bolts and which holes have short bolts! I used a Sharpie and noted the short bolt holes right on the old water pump.

When you pull the pump out, a boat load of coolant is going to dump out and get all over everything. Remove the old pump and peel away the old gasket carefully. Now is a good time to clean up the floor and soak up all the coolant that got all over everything. I used a shop vac to carefully suck some of the excess coolant out from the chambers where it pooled up. I also jacked up the rear end of the VX which caused more coolant to spill forward and out. This will help get most of the coolant out so you can finish the job without coolant constantly spilling out. Remember to take all the bolts you removed and put them in a plastic baggie. Seal the plastic baggie with some masking tape and write on the tape, "water pump bolts".





Step 29) Install new water pump and water pump gasket. Line everything up and thread a couple of the top bolts in by hand. Remember to also get your new Water Pump Stud unpacked and ready. Then, using your torque wrench, crank everything down in order using the correct torque specs as outlined in the manual. You will also need some Loctite thread locker to secure one of the bolts. See the diagram from the manual below.



Step 30) Install new Idle Pulley. Unpack your new Idle Timing Pulley and install. Torque to 38 lb ft as outlined in the manual.

Step 31) Remove old Tensioner Pulley and replace with New Tensioner Pulley. There is one 17mm bolt and washer to remove and replace. Torque the new Tensioner Pulley to 31 lb ft as outlined in the manual.




Step 32) Install new timing belt. This part must be done exactly correct. If the belt is even one tooth off your timing will be incorrect. Take out your new Isuzu Timing Belt. Look for the arrows and words on the belt. You need to install the belt so you can read the words and so the arrows are going from left to right. See the diagrams below.



Now, find the two solid white lines and the one dotted white line on the new belt. The solid white lines go on the camshaft pulleys and the dotted white line goes on the crankshaft pulley at the bottom. Lay the belt on the RH camshaft pulley and position the first white line on the pulley and align it with the reference mark on the pulley. Secure the belt with a binder clip. Now, here is where a helper comes in handy. Have your helper put a ratchet on the RH camshaft pulley and slowly crank the pulley back toward the 10 o'clock reference mark lining up all three marks (the mark on the pulley, the line on the belt, and the reference mark on the engine housing).

Then, install the rest of the belt. Line up the 2nd white line on the LH camshaft pulley and secure it with another binder clip. Attach another ratchet to the LH camshaft pulley. As you get things wrapped around the various pulleys you will notice the slack coming out of the belt. At this point you will realize that this process is really not that complicated, however it is somewhat difficult to interpret from the manual and even from the Isuzu training videos. As you can see, it is a little difficult to explain, but now you know how all this works!

Now comes another slightly tricky part that requires manipulation of the camshaft pulleys so that you have enough slack to get the belt wrapped around everything correctly and finally positioned correctly on the crankshaft pulley. Remember, DO NOT rotate the crankshaft pulley yet! Look at the photos below and you will see where the dotted line needs to be. You need to get the bottom of the belt on the crankshaft pulley and line up the dotted line with the NOTCH ON THE BACK of the crankshaft pulley located at 180° from the line on the oil pump housing (this is at roughly the 9 o'clock position). The easiest way to do this is to lay on the floor and go at it from underneath. You WILL NOT see the notch on the back of the crankshaft pulley without looking up from below. Have your helper up top manipulating the camshaft pulleys so you have the slack needed to get the belt on the crankshaft pulley correctly. If you don't have a helper you can do what I did in the photo below, but a helper is better. A couple more binder clips will help hold the belt on the crankshaft pulley once you get it installed and in exactly the right notch.

This is what I did to give the belt enough slack because I had no helper at the moment.

Step 33) OK, once you are confident you have the belt installed correctly, and all the marks line up right, it is time to install the new Timing Belt Push Tensioner. In my case, the new one was shorter than the original, but it is the correct replacement part. This will also require a little manipulation. The easiest way to do this is to loosely thread the bottom bolt and then using a ratchet and 12mm socket, slowly pull the Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley to the right enough so you can get the other bolt threaded. Tighten the TOP BOLT FIRST and then the bottom bolt. Torque both to 18 lb ft as outlined in the VX shop manual.



Step 34) Before you pull the pin on the new Push Tensioner, I highly recommend you check, double-check, and check again the position of the new timing belt and all the marks on the pulleys and the engine housing. Make sure everything is correct and no teeth are off. Make sure the belt is centered on all the pulleys and not sticking off the edges of any of the pulleys. Once you are sure everything is good, go ahead and pull the pin on the new Push Tensioner. The Push Tensioner rod will unload and apply the correct amount of pressure on the Tensioner Pulley. Your timing belt is now correctly installed!!! Take the binder clips off all the pulleys and everything should look like the photos below:



Step 35) Now, just so you are ABSOLUTELY SURE, rotate the engine by hand 2 or 3 times using the large 24mm bolt on the crankshaft pulley and a breaker bar. As you turn the engine, notice the marks on the camshaft pulleys line up with the marks on the engine housing at every full rotation. This is how you know for sure your timing is correct! Once you are sure it is time to put everything back together. Using the breaker bar and 24mm socket, knock the 24mm bolt in the crankshaft pulley loose again and remove it. This is not hard since you did not torque it down.
PART 3: REASSEMBLY

Step 36) Clean off your timing belt covers really good. Replace the rubber washers in their recessed holes on the back sides of the covers. Then replace the timing belt covers in the reverse order. Bottom first, then RH bank cover, then the LH bank cover. It might take you a few minutes to figure out how all the bushings and bolts go together but it will become clear as you go. Torque the bolts down to 14 lb ft as outlined in the VX workshop manual.

At this point, I stopped taking photos and just followed my notes in reverse order to put everything back together. As I replaced parts, I cleaned them off as best I could. I used a shop vac and a pick to carefully remove all the little rocks and dead bugs from my radiator. You may choose to take your radiator in for professional cleaning and pressure testing. I also wiped down all the parts behind the front cladding, vacuumed out all the dirt that I found, and cleaned off some minor surface rust I found on the bumper. I sprayed the rusty spots with some good quality black spray paint as well. I then proceeded to replace all the parts I removed. This is where you will thank yourself for staying organized and using the plastic baggies with masking tape labels.
Step 37) Replace the Crankshaft Pulley and torque down the 24mm bolt with the help of your home-made J-tool. Torque the crankshaft pulley to 123 lb ft as outlined in the VX workshop manual.
Step 38) Replace the Power Steering Pulley. Insert a 14mm socket through one of the holes in the pulley and attach it to the bolt behind. Tighten the main bolt down. This is where I started having trouble locating the proper torque specs in the manual. I spoke with Merlin and he said to just make sure everything is tight and to not over tighten. So that is what I did with the remaining pulleys.
Step 38) Reinstall the serpentine belt tensioner

Step 39) Reinstall the Fan Drive Assembly

Step 40) Using your breaker bar, pull the serpentine belt tensioner to the right, and reinstall the serpentine belt as shown in the diagram below.

Step 41) Reinstall the fan blade.
Step 42) Place the round rubber bumpers for the radiator back in their proper holes. Carefully lower your radiator back into place. Replace the radiator retaining bracket and reattach the electrical conduit to the corner of the radiator.
Step 43) Replace the lower and upper fan shrouds.
Step 44) Replace the radiator hoses, hose clamps and the reattach the small overflow tank hose
Step 45) Reattach the transmission coolant lines you plugged off with the earplugs. Position the pinch clamps in the correct spots on the hoses.
Step 46) Replace the intake and reattach all connectors
Step 47) Reinstall the auxiliary cooling fan and bumper padding if you removed these parts.
Step 48) At this point, you can refill your radiator with coolant. Use a funnel and SLOWLY pour fresh coolant into the top of your radiator. I also poured some into the overflow tank. In my case, my VX took about 2.5 gallons of fresh coolant.
Step 49) Replace your battery and connect the terminals.
Step 50) This is the best step. Start your VX. Everything should be normal! Congratulations! You did everything correctly! Pat yourself on the back and call all your friends to gloat!
Step 51) Reinstall the front cladding and connect the round driving lights
Step 52) Reinstall your front turn signals
Step 53) Reinstall the grill and front skid plate
Step 54) Go for a ride to celebrate!!!!
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